Hello...

In the first episode, when we got away from Martı Marina and went out into the bay, we turned the rudder to the port. We had set course to the west, as the ancients called it. Following the southern shores of Hisaronu gulf, we had come to Atabol Cape. Now I would like to continue from where we left off and enter Yesilova gulf. We get acquainted with this paradise region by traveling clockwise along the coastal shores of Yesilova gulf. There is no humidity here either. Same climate as Hisaronu gulf.

The first geographical situation we will pay attention to when entering Yesilova gulf is the following: When we come to the end of the Hisaronu gulf following the southern shores, the main land curves towards the south and continues upright like a retaining wall for about 1.5-2 cable. It goes straight down into the sea, no debris. However, the prevailing breeze hits this wall and bounces back, making a windless corridor in front of it. In the same way, the waves crash and reflect and lift a fluttering sea that does not give peace to the boat. The sailing boat is left windless and unmanageable in this 1.5-2 cable corridor. Perhaps this is where the old legend "Atabol is hard to cross" comes from...

If I am going to pass from Hisaronu to Yesilova gulf, when I come to the area I mentioned while luffing tightly on starboard tack with the prevailing west-northwest breeze, I do not immediately loosen the sheets. I keep steering towards Symi. Until I am well away from that troublesome corridor of the Atabol turn. Anyway, since the motor yachts pass by almost licking the sheer retaining wall-like cliff, I don't clash with them either. When I see that my wind is not dropping, and I get far enough away that the waves are not jostling with each other, I gradually slacken the sheets, switch to off board and steer to the south.

At that moment, a light buoy in the middle of the sea about a mile ahead, right on my heading, enters my course. Atabol reef light buoy. Another remnant of an old light at the turn point of the mainland at my port beam. Yes, it is essential to put the lights on the capes. That's what they did and they put the Atabol light on Cape Atabol. But the danger is not on the cape, it is far off the cape. Right on the route of the boats sailing on the north-south line. Right on the Bozburun - Datca route. And it is such a ruthless danger, a shoal that has risen like a volcano from the depths. The ship that hit it couldn't stay above the tiny area, it continued with the force of inertia and boiled into the deep waters. It is said that there are many shipwrecks around Atabol rock... Then came to one’s senses and the flashing light buoy "the danger is below me" was placed in the right place. Right on top of the shoal.

This light buoy was destroyed in a storm in the past. We all assumed that a new one would be built immediately. Alas, we were wrong, for 2-3 years. The solution came from the sea laborer fishermen. They wrapped huge styrofoam cubes in their old nets and tied them to the rock under the sea. The nets were worn out and shattered, they renewed the sign on the same day. However, they were the ones who knew the location of that danger the best. They did not need a marker or buoy at all. They set an example of being "sailors" until the new buoy was built. Tirelessly, tirelessly...

It is really hard to turn Atabol (Apastol, as the locals call it). We couldn't turn it somehow.
We finally did. Our course is east. As soon as we turn Cape Atabol, there is a tiny indentation neighbor on it, like a bite taken out of the rocks. A perfect example of the rule that beautiful things are dangerous. Stop by early in the morning in very, very calm weather. In fact, I suggest you anchor the boat a little further to Canak Bay and visit by dinghy.

If you ignore this bite and steer east, beware!!!... Right on your heading there is debris laid on the north-south line, three of which appear to be tiny rocks. Immediately after sheering off this debris, start steering slightly to port. We came to Canak Bay, which is a delightful bay for both swimming and snorkeling.

After Canak, we will sail eastward by abreasting the steep slopes for a while. Probably a pintle sail. The sails are bear legs (wing and wirg). I wondered why this sail trim was called bear leg for years. It is reasonable and logical to call it "butterfly" when ocean crossers rig double foresails, set them in different directions and never use the mainsail, but where did the bear come from, what does its leg mean?... It turns out that we were looking at it from the air. When the bear sits, it spreads one leg to the sides with more open braces (mainsail) and the other with more closed braces (foresail). I found out and my head was lifted to the sky...

While trying not to drop the boom into an involuntary jibe, you see two base station masts side by side on top of the hill on your port beam. You know the Kocabahce Bay which was aligned with the western begining of Koca Ada in Hisaronu, these are the base station masts you see on the hill at the southern bottom of that bay. We came right to the southern ridge of Kocabahce. I say that these Yelkenli Yachting boats keep circling around two masts, but no one believes me...

There is a wide and beautiful slope descending from the base station poles towards the sea. It became like a new neighborhood with a lot of illegal construction. A pier was even built on the shore. There is also a structure that looks likely to be a restaurant. We will live and see...

After this area, sheer off the tiny protrusions and noses that will appear on your port side. There is debris. There is Tavsanbuku Island very close to the land on your port side. It seems like this island is standing guard in front of Tavsanbuku. The flat area on the shore is used as a boat yard for gulets in winter. The only difficulty of anchoring in the area is the scarcity of mooring spots and the fact that they are located far inland from the shore.

On your starboard bow is the huge Kızıl Ada. And right in your heading is its long northern promontory, like Pinocchio's nose. The promontory stretches from south to north like a breakwater. Even in the sea. There is a shallow passage between where the debris of this promontory ends and the mainland to the north. This is important !!!... Divide the distance between the last point of the Kızıl Ada promontory on the sea and the main land into three, and dive into the passage deadly slow ensuring one third remains on the island's side. But don't get carried away and go too far ahead. Make a 90 degree turn to starboard as soon as you abreast the island's breakwater like nose and proceed for 20-30 meters. If there is a gulet around to make this passage, I suggest you slow down and follow it for your first passage experience.

The area we enter through this passage is the famous Ada Bogazi. It is very popular. It is one of the rare areas that blow smoothly without any waves. The top of the sea is active. The boats of the people coming to swim from the pensions in Bozburun, the boats of the vendors, the dinghies of the anchored boats going to Bozburun for shopping and of course the speedy sea toys...

Why is it called Ada Bogazi? Because when we passed through the passage, we turned 90 degrees to starboard (south), and there is another small island on our port side. Kiseli Island. We're in the strait between Kızıl and Kiseli Island. Kiseli Island is an ancient harbor. The eastern indentation of the island, which looks like a left footprint when you look from above, is the winter harbor, while the western side, which you see on your port side right now, is the summer harbor. When you look carefully at the shore, you can see the adjacent crescent-shaped caverns made of processed stones for boats unloading their cargo. What's left of them, of course. And just above that, what remains of the building that used to store commercial goods. There is also the remains of a windmill on Kiseli Island. But perhaps watching the rabbits and listening to the partridges will amuse you the most...

The remains of the church are not actually on Kiseli (probably a corruption of "kiliseli") Island. It's on the mainland just to the immediate north of that. But there is such a shallow and narrow sea in between that may be it used to be walkable in the past. Do not enter that passage. Don't be fooled by captains who know the passage very well and slalom through it on a catamaran. There is no way to save the center board.

You can let go the anchor in Ada Bogazi and moor either Kızıl Island or Kiseli Island and spend a pleasant night. Or you can go around Kiseli Ada from the south and stern fast in the indentation to the east. The Ada Bogazi is a very detailed and difficult geography to explain; you will take a look at the navigation chart while reading, won't you?....

When you go around to the east of Kiseli Island, you encounter an inland sea like a huge lake. This inland sea starts with the harbor of Bozburun and the beach next to it in the north, and opens up towards the south. Kiseli Island and Kızıl Island provide natural protection against the prevailing westerly waves. This inland sea, which blows without any waves, gives a very nice sailing pleasure. When you emerge from the south of Kızıl Island, you encounter waves that roll all the way from Datca and find the bottom of Yesilova Bay. Turn back. Come back to Bozburun and enjoy it again...

Bozburun harbor has water and electricity but space is scarce. In order to get a free spot, you have to enter before noon. There are no vaults, you will anchor. There's little depth and the bottom's a strong slime. There's no chance of dragging anchor. Therefore don't entangle other people's chains by anchoring far away. There are officials at the harbor. They will show you a place and guide you. If you want a quiet night, I suggest mooring to the western coast. The shower and toilet are on that side anyway.

In Bozburun, laundry, doctor, pharmacy, boat supplies, shopping and all other needs can be met. It is a customs gate, entry and exit procedures can be carried out. The harbor and the market center are very close to Germe Bay in Hisaronu Gulf, which I have mentioned before.

In front of the beach on the west side of the harbor is anchorage area. You will see many boats anchored, resting.

When you shove off Bozburun harbor and steer towards the south, you will come across a large island like a dome. It is clear all around, you can pass through any side you want. Further on, on your prt side, you can see an indentation towards the east and a shipyard, a boatyard and a marina serving mostly commercial vessels. This is the deepest point that gives the gulf its name; Yesilova. On your starboard side, Kızıl Ada with a few beautiful inlets shows you some nice anchorage spots.

When the Kızıl Ada ends in the south and it's time to get out of this wave-free inland sea, don't get too close to the Zeytin Island on your port side. There are debris. A little later, you will see a gate like two spearheads with their pointed ends almost touching each other, and you will want to enter Söğüt from here. Don't!... It is very shallow. You'll notice the warning buoy as you approach. But I admit, the fact that fishing boats (locally known as piyade) passing through here can be tempting.

Approaching like the tip of a spear, the northern one is the main land and the southern one is Söğüt Adası. The entrance to Söğüt is from the south of Söğüt Adası. Although it has an extremely wide entrance, Söğüt Bay welcomes you like a lake, like an inland sea. The only difference from the inland seas of Selimiye and Bozburun is that it takes swell. The waves coming from Datça and crossing Yeşilova Bay also enter Söğüt through this wide gate. The nights in Söğüt are usually spent with the codle of the boat.

Söğüt is a very famous village where people who are bored of "society life" escape to, in the words of master Sadun Boro. When viewed from the sea it consists of two neighborhoods separated by a tiny but steep headland. At the entrance you come across Cumhuriyet neighborhood and the other one is Kızılyer neighborhood. There are a few beautiful piers and restaurants serving yachtsmen.

Although the coasts of Değirmen Adası and Taşlıca Adası at the exit of Söğüt are extremely attractive with their cyrstal-clear waters, it is difficult to anchor as the coasts are usually very deep. Gulets with their seemingly endless chains enjoy these islands.

After this point, the land extends to the west and if you draw a line from Cape Atabol, where we enter Yesilova Bay, to the south, it continues to this line. And it makes Yesilova Bay look like a wine glass raised to the setting sun. This part, which forms the southern border of the bay, is open to wind and waves. Since the depth is also too much, it does not allow much anchorage opportunity.

However there is a place on the west side of this area, right at the edge where the wine glass will meet the lips, that truly is winey. Oğlanboğuldu. A corner of paradise despite the unpleasantness of its name. It is a marvelous recess hidden by the tiny island just east of Cape Oğlanboğuldu. It may not be very comfortable to stay overnight as it takes swell, but it is guaranteed to be one of the most beautiful swimming breaks.

After Cape Oğlanboğuldu, the land turns in the direction of southwest, shaping the rim of the goblet, ends Yeşilova Gulf with Kızıl Cape.

From this point to Cape Ala, a few miles south, the climate is still as beautiful. As soon as you turn east from Cape Ala, which the locals call Ekmek Burnu (Cape of Bread) and throw a piece of bread for old sailors’ souls every time they passed, the climate instantly changes as if you had passed through an invisible door. The map on the navigation table suddenly turns to dough with humidity.

May the beauties of nature, the sea, the wind and sailing always be with you, may they add joy to your enjoyment, wishing you well-being...

turgut ilhan