Sailing in Hisaronu Gulf

Enjoy Sailing in Hisaronu with Yelkenli Yachting.


Hello...

I want to introduce you to the main port of Yelkenli Yachting, the Hisarönü Gulf. Although no one has fully understood it. For example, in mythology, no one has discovered why the gods sent their favored mortals to Hisarönü Gulf to bestow long life upon them. And, just as if to prove this, the people of the region have never known why their ancestors lived over a hundred years without ever knowing a doctor or a coat...

I didn't know these things either until I fell in love with Hisarönü Gulf at first sight and brought my boat to Marti Marina. In the ruggedness of the Western Black Sea, struggling to enjoy my boat without logistical support, people would ask me why I didn't head south. I always used to say, "It's too hot down there. The combination of heat and humidity is unbearable to me." Finally, someone said, "Alright then, go to Marti Marina."

One night, I got in the car and left the capital city behind. By the time I arrived in Marmaris the next morning, I was already beginning to feel the dampness that made itself known with the first rays of the day, causing me to sweat profusely. I hit the road to Datça, saying "Well, there’s no turning back, regardless of the outcome." First, I droved the winding ramp. Just as I reached the summit, it was as if I had suddenly passed through a door. The climate changed abruptly. As I descended the slope, there was no more humidity, and the greasy feeling of sweating disappeared. I relaxed. My face started to smile. At that very moment, I understood that despite being connected to Marmaris, the western side of the Bozburun Peninsula is a different world. The climate is entirely different. Nature is entirely different.

What am I talking about? We all know that the Datça Peninsula is located in the southwest corner of the map of Turkey, like a horizontal finger. To mimic it, raise your right arm and make your forearm parallel to the ground. Close three of your fingers and open your index and thumb. To make the index finger point down, turn the back of your hand towards yourself. Marmaris is down there, where the index finger meets the wrist. To go towards Datça, you need to first pass the protrusion of the bone and descend into the valley where the two lower fingers meet. That's where Hisarönü Village is located.

Since the names of the bays are derived from the settlements at their farthest points, they named Hisarönü Bay after this village. Continue a little further from the western side of your index finger, and you'll reach Orhaniye Village. This is where the famous Kızkumu (Maiden's Sand) is located, which has been a shipyard since ancient times but was turned into a marina, Marti Marina.

Now, I will tell you about the space between this index finger and the thumb. And also about Yeşilova Bay, which seems as if one of the thumbnails has taken a bite out of it. Instead of summarizing it in a single narrative, I will try to introduce you to this paradise region in pieces.

Ah, but what happened when I arrived in Hisarönü by car? Love at first sight. I made a year and a half contract with Marti Marina before even bringing the boat. Then, together with Mr. Anıl Çivi, the founder of Yelkenli Yachting, we brought my boat to the marina. Mr. Anıl was a broad-minded man. He didn't just talk about bringing a boat like mine; he immediately started talking about plans to establish a yacht charter company and make this place the main port... In 2006, he realized this plan. Since then, Yelkenli Yachting, which has been developing successfully, has become a Turkish company that has achieved many "firsts." His very valuable wife, Mrs. Özlem Aydın Çivi, is also waving the flag she took over with great success. May the evil eye stay away...

Since I got a bit carried away with the introduction, let me tell you about the shorter side of the bay in this text. I mean the southern side of Hisarönü Bay. I mean the places when you leave the marina and head west along the coastline.

In all our boats, we have the guidebook of Sadun Boro, a master of both sailing and writing. It provides comprehensive information on anchoring advice, seabed structure, prevailing winds, and more.

Orhaniye Village is beautiful. It can be explored before untying the boat. The market is set up on Saturdays. In the village, you can find Migros, A101, and local markets.

The legend of “Kızkumu” is truly remarkable, with the princess trying to reach her shepherd lover by casting stones from her skirt into the sea to avoid getting caught by her father's soldiers. I can't say why the crazy soldiers didn't rescue the princess by taking the path she created and running out of stones, but it seems like we won't be able to save Kızkumu from being walked on by crowds of people every day as if it were an obligation...

At the spot where the enamored shepherd watched the incident, there are also 3-4 small marinas. In the bay that holds anchor really well, you'll find plenty of gullet boats. But be careful; never attempt to go around the island opposite the marina by boat. The passage between the island and the mainland is shallow. Even on that tiny island, there are remnants of a castle and a monastery, just like many other islands in the region. During wars, when territories changed hands, sacred places, along with the adjacent endowed lands, were left with the defeated state. The clever ones who knew this would gather weapons and preparations in these places of worship to reclaim the country when they grew stronger.



When leaving the marina and heading towards the bay, you'll see a buoy at your dock with the sign "pass to the north." As you set your course to the west, passing this buoy just off the nose, you'll soon see a luxury hotel perched on the coastline. Right after that, you'll encounter a U-shaped bay – it's the beach of Turgut Village. The village itself is located inland. Despite suffering significant damage in the recent fire, there's still a truly marvelous waterfall in the interior. On the western coast of this bay, you'll find two medium-sized marinas. On the bottom, there's a beach.

As you continue sailing westward, there are no significant hazards near the coast. However, if you haven't raised your sails, don't get too close. The motor might malfunction. Until the sails are raised and the helm is taken, we might find ourselves onshore. Since it's deep, anchoring won't be of any use.

Anyway, let's talk about enjoyable things. Along the way, the trees reaching down to the sea create a pleasant view. You'll also notice 3-4 small coves. Since they are exposed to the prevailing wind and waves, they have gravel beaches on the coast. It's nice to take a swim break in calm weather, especially in the morning. I can't highly recommend staying overnight, but if you insist, I'd suggest seeking shelter on the western protruding parts of these coves. They provide excellent protection during the harsh southerly winds we encounter on winter days.

As you sail westward, you'll suddenly notice the sea extending southward, and the land receding. Welcome to the entrance of the famous Selimiye Village. As you turn the bow of the boat to the south, you'll see a small island resembling a seal. If there's no boat anchored in the eastern cove, take it immediately. Even if you have other plans for overnight stays, I'd suggest at least taking a look at the beauty of the sea. If you're someone who enjoys the moment, it's a guaranteed happiness to behold...

When you turn the course to the south, you'll see the trees on your port extending down to the sea, a large cove that goes very deep on your heading, and cars progressing along the Selimiye road on the coast. To the starboard bow side, there's a small cove bordered by high and bare rocks that descend steeply. It's called Sığ Liman, meaning Shallow Harbor. With its sandy bottom and shallow waters, it offers a wonderful swimming break in the warm sea or, if you prefer, you can spend the night on anchor.

If you're not planning to enter Sığ Liman and intend to continue south, then don't get too close to the mainland on the starboard side. Especially as you begin to enter Selimiye's view, there is a lot of debris.

There's no need to describe Selimiye; it's quite famous. It's like a big inner sea along the edge of the bay, a fantastic holiday destination. During your cruise, you'll find local markets to meet your needs, as well as supermarkets of well-known brands. The bay's restaurants and cafes are also very enjoyable. There's a pharmacy and basic boat supplies available. At the entrance to the bay, you'll see a danger buoy on your starboard bow side. Just don't get too close; the surroundings are clear. You can either anchor and take a dinghy ashore or call the municipal pier to inquire about mooring options. (I'm not providing specific names and phone numbers, as they may change over time.) Or, you can ask if there is mooring available in front of the restaurant where you made a reservation. It's worth asking.

After leaving Selimiye and then skirting Sığ Liman, we re-entered Hisarönü Bay and turned our heading back to the west. Here, there are five islands lined up in a line from east to west. Let's navigate through the channel between the islands and the mainland. To port, there are steep, bare, high cliffs, and since it continues underwater the same way, you can get close enough to touch. With the prevailing wind coming from the opposite direction and no waves in the channel, you can enjoy a pleasant downwind sail and practice your jibing skills as you head west.

The first island to starboard is Kameriye. Its eastern-facing coast is suitable for overnight stays. However, it's impossible to resist the turquoise waters in the southeast corner. It's perfect for a swim break in the channel's gentle breeze. Just one cable west of this point, there's a beautiful church ruin on the shore. There's also the tradition of tying cloth to the wish tree. It's an essential stop for day-trip boats. In the area between the church and the turquoise water I mentioned, there's a tiny island near the mainland. It's a safe spot. It looks very similar to the later-mentioned Dişlice Island, so I named it Bebek Dişlice (Baby Dişlice).

We've rounded Kameriye Island, and now, Koca Ada is beginning on our starboard side. But first, let's take a look to port. Inside, it extends steeply with high cliffs, forming a triangular cove facing south. This is Germe Cove. You'll see a road winding upward in the crevice of the rocks at the bottom of the cove. It's the road to Bozburun. Bozburun is very close. If you're up for the climb, you can even walk there. Due to the steep rocky terrain surrounding it, Germe Cove is deep. However, it has advantages like designated areas for trash disposal and the delivery of supplies ordered by phone from Bozburun. In fact, some excursion boats have even started changing passengers here. There's no empty space left for parking cars on the shore.

We continue westward after rounding Germe Cove. Koca Ada has begun on our starboard side. Its eastern coast is also a safe anchorage area. However, suitable spots for anchoring stern lines are quite scarce.

If you decide to moor at a restaurant dock for the night, you'll find Kuz Bükü right in front of you. If you're sailing close to Germe Cove, it's right on your heading side.

After Kuz Bükü, the mainland approaches Koca Ada, and the channel narrows. Especially in the southern part, there's a broad strip of shallows, so the navigable area becomes quite narrow.



When the yellow earthy point of Koca Ada ends on your starboard side, you'll see Kocabahçe Cove on your port side, which is quite large and V-shaped. The shallows along the coast have ended, but please still enter the cove from the middle of its mouth. There's an unpredictable rock near the eastern side, deep enough to snag your keel. Please check on the map for confirmation.

The bottom of Kocabahçe Cove is also V-shaped and deep, hard to anchore because of the seabed structure. Since all of Sailboat Yachting's boats use the same excellent anchor, you can safely anchor stern-to the shore as long as you completely empty the anchor chain. You can anchor on either the east or west coast of the cove. However, I would still recommend not choosing this spot to weather out a storm.

If you're planning to moor at a restaurant dock again, the solution is right on the heading. Among the two adjacent docks at the bottom of the cove, the western one belongs to the Sailors' Paradise restaurant. It has solid vaults and is operated by the most experienced family in the industry. The lack of road access truly turns the atmosphere into a sailor's paradise. It's essential to make a reservation in advance. (Mr. Tarık: +90 531 322 47 97, Ms. Zerrin: +90 531 322 47 92)

Continuing westward, Koca Ada is now behind us, and Uzun Ada has begun. In this area, the perimeters of the islands (except for the northern ends of two of them) are safe, but be cautious when passing the protruding points of the mainland on your port side. Also, the channel is starting to get choppy.

Until you round Uzun Ada and then Topan Ada, the 2-3 coves you see on your port side are suitable only for short swimming breaks. However, as you approach Kargı Island, Girneyit Cove on the mainland, where the northwest wind enters, is suitable for overnight stays. It's deep, so you need to empty the anchor chain again.

But if you say, "No way, I don't want to anchor in the open sea; who wants to bother with cooking?" then go a bit further west. The islands lined up one after another are now behind you. The Datça Peninsula lies to the north in all its grandeur. You might even see the wind turbines at Datça Kızlan Beli if the visibility is good. Just 1.5 - 2 cable later, you'll arrive at the world-famous Dirsek Bükü on your port side.

Dirsek Bükü is a favorite destination for sailors of all nationalities, but you can only reach it by sea. There's a restaurant and a safe vaulted dock at the western end of the cove. Reservation is also essential here. (Mr. Levent: +90 532 161 16 20)

We've now completed the southern shores of Hisarönü Bay, and from here until we reach Atabol, which marks the entrance to the southern Yeşilova Bay, it's exposed to the prevailing wind and waves. It's not suitable for anchoring.

I hope all your cruises bring you happiness. Best wishes…

turgut ilhan

(1) Reviews

  • hisaronu gulf enjoy sailing

    Dilara Ersoy - 20-03-2024

    Bu muhteşem yazıyı okurken resmen kendimi denizciymişim gibi hissederek orda tüm seyri yaşadım.Hisarönüne gidip ordan tekneyle açılıp rüzgara kendimi veresim ve sessizlikte içimdeki çocuksu çığlığı yaşama isteği geldi .Bu güzel yazıyı yazıp denizciliğe merak salmamızı sağladığınız için yürekten teşekkür ediyorum.Saygıdeğer Didem hocamın bana denizcilikten bahsederken gözlerinin ışıldamasını öyle hayranlıkla izledim ki ;sonra heyecanla Turgut beyin bu müthiş yazısını okudum.Gönlünü veren bu güzel yürekli insanlara çok ama çoook teşekkür ederim.

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